MEZCAL REVIEW: Banhez Mezcal Artesenal

This is my favorite ensamble mezcal for the price. Banhez' melange of 90% espadin and 10% barril agaves give a unique profile to the alcohol. A collective group of 20 families from the town of San Miguel Ejutla in the central valley of Oaxaca collaborate on this special distillation. The piñas are roasted in underground wood-fired pits, mashed using donkey-pulled tahonas, and finally fermented in wooden tanks and distilled in copper alembics.

This mezcal has tasting notes of roasted pineapple, with the woody goodness of the barril agave in the middle notes, finishing with a subtle floral note on the nose. This is my favorite mezcal for the price for sipping, and also is an excellent mixing mezcal for cocktails.

NOM: NOM-O96X

State: Oaxaca

Town: San Miguel Ejutla

Agave: Espadin, Barril

Style: Joven

Price: $

Distillation: Copper

ABV: 42%

Release year: 2017

Website: http://www.cnibrands.com/banhez-mezcal-artesanal/

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VIDEO: Salsa de Molcajete 101

Don't get me wrong, I love my blender, but there is something very unique about the consistency of a pre-Hispanic molcajete ground salsa. The molcajete and temolote or, the "Aztec blender," are traditionally carved out of volcanic basalt rock and is essentially a three legged bowl. The texture of the salsas crushed by hand are thicker, meatier, and allow the maker to have precise control over how fine the ingredients should be smashed. With a blender, two pulses can make or break your salsa as the aggressive blades pulverize versus the temolote (hand held pestle), which crushes. At Casa Oaxaca our server prepared a salsa de molcajete tableside and used chile de arbol asking our level or spice and the presentation was absolutely fabulous.

For most tomatillo based salsas, I like to search Mexican markets for smaller tomatillos or tomates verdes. They pack much more flavor and are easier to control inside the walls of the bowl of the molcajete. If you cannot find the small ones, substitute for medium sized. The salt here is sal mexicana.

 

Molcajete:

mōlcaxitl /mo̞lkaˈxe̞t̪e̞/

Classic Nahuatl - Noun:

1. A small mortar, typically carved from vesicular basalt and used in traditional Mexican cuisine

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Ingredients:

• 2 white onion slices, 1/4 inch thick, skin on

• 2 garlic cloves, skin on

• 7-15 tomatillos (see above on size), skin removed

• 4-8 chiles de arbol, seeds and stem intact

• salt to taste

• 1 lime

Method:

1. Rinse out your molcajete and clean the tomatillos. Slice the onion into rings.

2. Over medium flame bring the comal to temperature. Place the onion, garlic, tomatillos, and chile de arbol on the comal. Allow the chiles to toast but not burn. Once they smell of peanuts, remove them from heat de-stem and allow them to reconstitute in cold water. Allow the remaining ingredients to charr. Flip them until they are cooked through - roughly 15-20 minutes. Remove from heat.

3. Place garlic cloves and salt in the molcajete. Crush the cloves and remove the skin from the garlic. Crush into a fine paste and then incorporate the remaining ingredients one by one until they are ground into a thick sauce. Add salt and lime to taste. Serve room temperature.

RECIPE: Paloma Cocktail

TORONJA

GRAPEFRUIT

Pink. Salty. Sweet. This is the perfect cocktail and is as common as the Margarita in Mexico. This recipe will cleanse your guest's palates and grapefruits are in season - so get squeezing! This is a lover's drink.

Ingredients:

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• 5.5 ounces fresh grapefruit juice
• 1 tablespoon sea salt
• 2 ounces Bahnez mezcal
• 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• splash of sparkling soda

Method:

1. Prepare a highball glass by dipping the rim into 1/2 ounce grapefruit juice, and then dipping it into the salt. Fill the glass with crushed ice
2. Mix the remaining grapefruit juice, mezcal, lime juice, sugar in a shaker. Shake until combined.
3. Pour over the ice and pour a splash of sparkling soda. Garnish with a grapefruit or lime wedge.

VIDEO: Tortilla 101

Alex Stupak, chef of Empellon in NYC, says tortilla making is more of a method than a recipe and I can't agree more. Tortillas are essential to authentic Mexican cuisine and they may seem simple, but mastering their texture and nuances has taken me years. My family made flour (harina) tortillas when I was growing up and we sometimes made maiz (corn). So when I went on this endeavor, I was like a fish out of water. I spoke with the tortilla flipping ladies of Mexico City and Oaxaca and finally at Casa Oaxaca, one of my best dining experiences I've ever had, the tortilla lady let me ask her questions that solved everything. I'm sharing those tips below.

Ingredients:

• 1.5 parts Maseca

• 1 part water (hot water)

• Salt to taste

Method:

1. In a bowl mix the masa and hot water for five minutes until well combined. These portions can change if the dough is too dry. You are going to have to do this many times to get the consistency right. Cover with a damp towel and allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes.

2. On the highest heat possible, place a comal over the open flame. Let the comal get very, very, hot. Meanwhile press the first tortilla in a tortilla press.

3. Lay the tortilla on the comal and allow it to cook until the sides lift off the surface. Flip the tortilla and allow it to cook for another 45 seconds. Flip it a third time until the tortilla puffs, or fills with air. Immediately remove from heat and place in a basket or between two towels to stay warm. Serve as soon as possible.

*DISCLAIMER: In my video the tortillas did not puff. Due to technical difficulties, the gas on my portable stove top did not have enough BTUs to get hot enough.

RECIPE: Pozole

POZOLE

/po'sole/

Classical Nahuatl:

Noun

1. hominy, pozolli

Pozole is a dish served all over Mexico and has many variations. My family makes this nearly every Holiday season and the hearty stew is sure to bring warmth back to a cold winter day. My recipe takes the best parts from my aunt's version of pozole and has been refined using French cooking techniques. The double straining through a fine mesh strainer makes all the difference in the broth. You can use dried or canned hominy, but if you want more control over the texture of the corn, spend the extra effort in soaking the dried kernels over night.

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Pozole rojo

Serves 6

Ingredients:

FOR THE POZOLE

• 2 lbs pork shoulder, cut into 4 large pieces

• 2 bay leaves

• 1/2 white onion

• 5 garlic cloves

• 3 guajillo chiles

• 2 ancho chiles

• 3 puya chiles

• 1 tablespoon Mexican oregano

• 1 teaspoon ground cumin

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 cup dried hominy (presoaked overnight) OR 1 8oz can prepared

• salt to taste

FOR THE GARNISH:

• lime wedges

• shredded cabbage

• sliced radish

• cilantro

GARNISH!

radish / rabano

Method:

1. Place the pork, bay leaves, and 1/4 of the onion, and 3 cloves of garlic in a pot. Cover the meat with water (roughly 8 cups) and bring to a boil. Skim the impurities off the surface of the boiling water and reduce the heat to a steady simmer. Cook for 1 hour, 15 minutes or until the meat is able to pull apart.

2. While the meat cooks, toast the chiles on a comal for roughly 1 minute until fragrant and smoking, but not burnt. (The soup will be bitter if the chiles are burnt.) Soak the chiles in water, cover and allow the chiles to reconstitute for 15 minutes. Deseed and de-stem the chiles and place in blender with 1/4 onion, 2 garlic cloves, oregano, cumin, and 1 cup of water. Blend for three minutes and then pass through a mesh strainer. Heat the olive oil in a pot on low heat and cook the chile paste for roughly 15 minutes, stirring constantly, until the mixture is a dark shade of red.

3. Remove the meat from the stock and chop into bite size cubes. Strain the stock through a mesh strainer and then a second time through a fine mesh strainer. Add the stock to the chile mixture and stir to blend. Add the pork and hominy and heat on low until the oil seperates out. Salt to taste. Serve with garnishes and fresh tortillas.

RECIPE: Mezcal Margarita

This recipe is special and it is not mine - this is the recipe of Noah Small, the beverage director at Empellon, NYC. It is simple and it puts a whopping 2 ounces of mezcal forward in the recipe. The marriage of the agave nectar with the espadin is simply brilliant because the flavor bases are the same. When I think of traditional Margaritas, with triple sec or Curaçao, I think of hangovers and nights in a cheap Tex-Mex restaurant. Sweetness combined with smoke here is honest - a Margarita as it should be. I like to use the brand Fidencio Clasico in this cocktail, as it is my go-to mezcal for mixing and Mexican sea salt for the rim. The fishy flavor of the Mexican sea salt truly makes all the savory difference. You can find sal mexicana in the Mexican section of the grocery store in a small bag next to the dried chiles.

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Margarita de Mezcal

Ingredients:

• Mexican sea salt
• 1 ounce lime juice
• 2 ounces Fidencio Clasico Mezcal
• 3/4 ounce agave nectar

Method:

1. Squeeze enough lime juice onto a plate and sprinkle some Mexican sea salt onto another. Dip the glass rim into the lime juice and then immediately into the salt, spinning to coat the rim of the glass. Pour crushed ice into the glass.
2. Mix the lime juice, Fidencio Mezcal, and agave nectar in a shaker.
3. Pour over the ice and serve.